After priming the model, painting is now underway;
The light blue is RLM76 and because the surface area to cover is big, I mixed up my own using Tamiya XF-23 and X-2 using a mix I found online.
With the addition of acrylic retarder the paint went OK to a point but due to it being humid here in the UK at the moment, it still had a bit of a gritty finish. This has been sanded out using 5000 grade wet and dry so I can carry on with the model and it won’t be yet another candidate for the Box-of-Shame.
For priming I have been using Games Workshop Chaos Black for years as it has always been good, leaving a smooth finish. On the Sea Fury the paint had attacked the plastic, leaving a crazed surface in places that was very difficult to remove.
Thinking it was just ‘one of those things’ I used it again on the Dornier but yet again it attacked the plastic.
The only things I can think of here is that the plastic Airfix and ICM use is fairly soft so maybe prone to the solvent used in the primer, the other possibility is that Games Workshop have changed the formula and made it that bit more ‘hotter’. Either way I won’t be using it again as it has become too expensive here in the UK (something like £12 a can) and I’m having issues with it attacking the plastic. Instead I’ll be using a matt black rattle can paint by Holts as it is more widely available, it doesn’t harm the plastic and is half the price of the Games Workshop stuff.
Edit; I’ve been looking for more info online about the Games Workshop rattle cans and it appears that the paint has properties that etches it into a surface. I never realised this before and it explains why I have had issues with it affecting the soft plastic that Airfix and ICM kits are moulded in as other manufacturers use a harder polystyrene. I still won’t be using it in future as the price of the GW stuff is extortionate and I have found an alternative anyway that is half the price as mentioned above.
Sorry GW, I realise you must be gutted by this but ya know…..lol.